[Spots + wrinkles] Our best “clean” alternatives to retinol

Do you have fine lines and wrinkles? dark spots? blemishes? Or maybe all of the above? Retinol might just be the best investment for your skin!

It stands out for its powerful dermocosmetic benefits, supported by a host of scientific studies. However, in natural cosmetics, we tend to prefer forms of "bio-retinol" or "retinol-like" ingredients. Why? To limit the use of synthetic forms, initially, but also to circumvent usage constraints and formulate easier-to-use treatments, accessible even to those new to skincare.

Because the sacrosanct retinol, beyond its undeniable benefits, is above all a very sensitive product that must be handled with care...

Retinol and Retinoids

Retinol is an active form of vitamin A that belongs to the retinoid family. It's one of the most researched anti-aging actives... and without a doubt, one of the most effective.

However, it has a number of drawbacks that you should be aware of before making room for it in your bathroom.

First of all, it is (very) powerful, which requires a period of getting used to it (gradually increasing the concentration and frequency of applications). However, some sensitive skins may never fully accept it.

Let's add that it is photosensitizing: it is therefore only applied in the evening and requires wearing an SPF50 sunscreen the next morning. Finally, it is strictly not recommended for pregnant women.

Find it in:

Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid Renewing Serum – Odacité : The efficacy and tolerance of pure retinol are optimized by encapsulation technology, which promotes long-lasting release of the anti-aging active ingredient while minimizing the risk of irritation.

Aqua H Renewing Serum – Leahlani : This is hydroxypinacolone retinoate, which, like retinol, belongs to the retinoid family. More stable and gentle, it is said to be effective against wrinkles, spots, redness, imperfections, and even dryness.

Bakuchiol and its derivatives

Bakuchiol is a 100% plant-based ingredient, since it is extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (also called “bakushi,” a flagship plant in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine).

It's also found in other botanicals, such as Japanese elm bark. It naturally contains furocoumarins, photosensitizing molecules that are removed during the extraction process. Therefore, you can safely use bakuchiol during the day.

At the same concentration, its results on wrinkle depth and hyperpigmentation are equivalent to those of retinol. It also has anti-blemish activity (shine, lesions), while being much better tolerated by the skin – including delicate skin.

Find it in:

The One Cream – Nuori : a powerhouse that contains not only bakuchiol, but also hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, vitamin C, ceramides, panthenol, and vitamin E. The all-in-one solution we've been dreaming of!

Bio-Retinol + C Booster Oil – Evolve: a combination of bakuchiol and vitamin C, a dream duo to awaken your glow drop by drop while fading the appearance of signs of aging on mature skin or skin exposed to premature aging.

Infinity bio-fusion A+ serum – Nuori: a special feature: it does not contain bakuchiol, but a patented derivative of bakuchiol: Sytenol® A. Combined with other cutting-edge active ingredients such as NovHyal® and Beautiferm® Lift, it offers a visible “dermo-filling” effect on wrinkles.

Sea fennel

Samphire is a plant with a strange power: that of breaking the stones of the coasts where it grows! This is what earned it the nickname "stone piercer" or "stone breaker." An undeniable symbol of resilience, it has recently established itself as a bio-retinol active ingredient in natural cosmetics. Its richness in flavonoids, minerals, vitamins C, A, and E make it a comprehensive anti-aging agent.

It would thus stimulate cellular metabolism much more effectively than traditional vitamin C (regardless of the age of the cells), stimulate epidermal regeneration, strengthen the skin barrier and optimize the skin's defense against free radicals. And all this in a way that respects sensitive skin.

Find it in:

Night Balm – On The Wild Side : a powerful yet non-greasy formula to apply in the evening, before bed, to smooth and brighten your skin. Visible results from the first time you wake up!

The redensifying time mask – Absolution : formulated with no fewer than 17 pro-aging active ingredients, it is used as an initial treatment, then as a maintenance treatment to firm mature skin.

Our other retinol-like active ingredients

Rambutan extract (or hairy lychee) : This Asian superfruit is said to be able to improve the skin's collagen content, fight oxidative stress, and limit inflammation. According to Korean studies, its seeds may also activate the SIRT1 gene, which is involved in longevity mechanisms. To take advantage of this, opt for Indie Lee's alternative retinol cream , for example, with clinically proven results.

Hairy beggartick extract (bidens pilosa) : also known as "needle grass" or "sornet," it contains specific molecules that manage to attach to the retinoid receptors in our skin. This allows it to boost fibroblast activity and collagen synthesis, for plumper, denser, and more bouncy skin. It's the star active ingredient in Evolve's bio-retinol gold mask , an anti-aging and radiance-boosting mask with a golden formula!

Rosehip vegetable oil: its main interest is that it is rich in provitamin A, a substance that can then be converted into vitamin A and offer some effects quite close to those of retinol, although less powerful. It is therefore not quite a retinol-like active ingredient, since it does not act in the same way, but it nonetheless offers great benefits on the signs of aging. See for example the Ro+Y deep wrinkle serum from Odacité .

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